Bespoke

Resetting a grandmother’s ring

How we took an old-mine cut diamond from a 1920s ring and made something Noura now wears every day.

An antique gold ring with an old-mine cut diamond in a worn velvet box

Noura came in with a ring that had belonged to her grandmother: an old-mine cut diamond of about 0.9 ct in a high, worn platinum claw setting from the 1920s, bought in Bombay in the days when her great-grandfather traded pearls. She loved the stone and the story, and never wore the ring.

Looking at the stone

Old-mine cuts were shaped by hand, by eye, before modern cutting. They are a little uneven and softer in their sparkle, with a warm glow that new stones rarely have. Anouk checked it under the loupe: one tiny chip on the edge, hidden by the old claws.

The design

Céline drew three options. Noura chose a low, six-claw setting in yellow gold, with the chipped edge tucked under a claw and the shoulders tapering gently into the band. We carved it in wax so she could try the height on her finger at week two.

  • Stone: old-mine cut, about 0.9 ct, from the original ring.
  • Metal: 18ct recycled yellow gold.
  • Time: seven weeks, from first conversation to collection.
We kept the old platinum mount, cleaned it and returned it to her in the box. It was her grandmother’s, after all.

What changes, and what doesn’t

A new setting can make an old stone feel like yours without changing what it is. We never re-cut family stones unless asked, and we photograph and log every stone when it arrives. Noura now wears the ring every day.

More from the journal

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  • A rivière necklace of graduated diamonds in white gold on dark velvet

    Collections

    The Rivière collection

    A single line of graduated diamonds, set one by one. The new collection is in the salon to view from 4 November.

  • Small grains of recycled gold in a shallow crucible on a workbench

    Materials

    Where our gold comes from

    Why every piece we make is cast in recycled gold, how it is refined, and what traceable means for our stones.

  • A jeweller cleaning a diamond ring with a soft brush at a workbench

    Care

    Caring for fine jewellery at home

    What to do, and what to avoid, between visits to the salon. Plus when to bring a piece in.

Talk it through in person

An hour in the salon with one of our jewellers. Tea is always on.

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